The overnight train from Hanoi to the Vietnam-China border town of Lao Cai gets in at 4:30am. It’s a befuddling time, and it’s easy to lose your bearings - especially if you’re heading to Sapa. Stay firm, bargain hard, and insist on your destination, though, and you’ll end up at the hill station (albeit after more than an hour in a bumpy, crowded minivan).
It’s worth it. Sapa is magical: cool, misty and magnificent. The first day we arrived was so foggy that we couldn’t see across the street. That didn’t stop us from doing a day walk to nearby Cat Cat village, which rewarded us with close-up views of waterfalls and drastically improved lung capacities.
But it wasn’t until the next day that we could see what we had been missing: endless, sweeping valley views. Paddies terraced across the hillsides, right down to the rivers. Heavily forested mountains, their tops always invisible. We were looking forward to our 10km walk through the villages dotting the valley floor.
That’s when it got interesting. The Sapa region is home to several minority groups, most noticeably the Black Hmong, the Red Dzao and the Dzai groups. All three have their own distinct, mutually incomprehensible languages (Vietnamese is the language of commerce). Most members of these groups live a subsistence lifestyle, growing crops and occasionally selling the surplus for agricultural supplies and equipment.
As we walked, several Black Hmong women gathered around us, peppering us with questions and telling us stories of their lives. Their command of English, French and Chinese was admirable. They talked with us all the way along the mountainside. And when we crossed from their village to the next, the solicitations began. “Buy from me?” several asked, displaying beautifully crafted blankets, dubiously put-together bracelets, and cheap trinkets. We smiled and declined politely, but they persisted. “We walk all the way with you, we talk with you, and now you don’t buy from us?”
We felt torn. We really didn’t want anything. Our packs were full enough for our liking, and we had resolved to buy nothing we didn’t need on this trip. We hadn’t asked the women to walk with us, and we felt vaguely upset that their friendliness may only have been a commercial front (and yes, we knew that was a possibility from the beginning).
But some of the goods they were selling were of high quality. The prices were reasonable. They weren’t begging or asking for handouts - they were supplementing their meager incomes with a potential windfall from tourism. And they had definitely enhanced our experience of the valley. Would it be so bad to exchange some money for their handicrafts, despite the fact that we didn’t want them?
What would you have done?
- Vivek Wagle